Replacing your brass / copper yard faucets

First, why I created this post. I was on a Forum at TechGuy.org and I was going to reply to a post BUT I did not notice that the post had been marked as solved.
I did not scroll to the bottom to see that I was not on the last page of the post, so I had my answer all prepared only to find out, that the issue had been answered.
The poster was able to get his faucet replaced, I hated to just totally waste the time that I spent to work on the answer so I posted it here.
Not sure if it will help anyone, but here it is for what it is worth.

Happy surfing/ Happy Plumbing?

The Virusfighter

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If you think of repairing your faucet instead of replacing it, you would likely need the bran and model of the valve ,for sure the manufacturer to get a valve stem kit.

I tried one once for the bath and ended up replacing the whole faucet, as I could not make the kit work.

With a good torch ($20. some odd dollars - when I bought mine a few years back)
I believe they have kits with solder, flux (some type of solder paste that helps the solder adhere to the copper). So with that, and some sand paper (all new pipes and plumbing tubing /pipes need to be sanded as they have some type of clear coat on them to prevent corrosion when new) need to be sanded down with fine sand paper. If not sanded down you will not be able to get the pipe and fixture sweated together. once you have the pipe / fixture sanded and coated with a little pipe paste, resin, flux (whatever they call it for pipes)

Here is where I step out to the garage, dig for my BernzOmatic, kit.

Okay, its called flux.
My kit came with pipe brushes (helps the sanding, brush clean, then sand - that's what I do,
(I just sanded before getting the full kit with brushes - that works too).
The kit also comes with flux, sand paper and a tank full of propane, a pipe cutter and how to instructions!

Note: I have used a hack saw for cutting pipe, pipe cutter is better - they are about $5.00 US or less.

You don't want your flame too big or too small - just guess at it between the two.
Pipes - get them as dry as possible, turn water off, open you valves, especially the low level ones in the yard.

Use the inside part of the flame, which is a different color than the outside part.
I believe the center of the flame is blue or white, while the outside is red or yellow.
I am trying to remember back, has been a year or so since I have done any sweating (pipes that is).

What I do -

When I replace a yard faucet, or bath for that matter, I buy a sweat fitting (male hose adapter)
so I can screw the valve off, and screw a new one on the next time it needs replacing.
A matter worth noting, you can buy hose bibbs (faucets) with male or female threads,
so take note, if your faucet has male threads, you would need a female pipe adapter if you want to use the screw off / screw on method the for the next faucet replacement.

You will have to get to know some fittings, (if you don't already) measure your pipe/ tubing and perhaps speak with a knowledgeable plumbing person at your plumbing store.

When you get your pipe hot enough, you should be able to heat up the pipe on one side, and hold the solder about 180 degrees from the other side, and it shold flow to the side where the fire is.

When at your plumbing shop, you can buy an hose connector vacuum breaker end for your faucet (hose bibb whatever you want to call it) - it screws on the end, that is the type I have, and is the law for my state.

You can purchase faucets with built in vacuum breakers, either one will work, so your choice.

This site shows what I use, it is figure # 5.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/crops/04714.html


Best of Luck whatever route you take.